This summer's growing season has been like a horror movie. Remember that cult classic, "Attack of the Killer Tomatoes?" Talk about life imitating art!

I mean, is there any foodstuff out there that we can eat with confidence? The latest problem with this summer's "bounty" has been tomatoes. Well, not the absolute latest. At this writing, it's jalapeño peppers that have been under health department scrutiny.

So, OK. We can (arguably) live without jalapeño peppers for the time being, but tomatoes? Well, fiddle-dee-dee. We've had tomatoes on our writing agenda, then off our agenda. But the locals are so lovely and tasty and ripe and red and juicy, so they're back on the agenda. And here's the disclaimer: Provided that you buy them from your local farmers market, or from a supermarket that promises you locally grown ones. These are, allegedly (as they say in newspaper jargon) safe.

Another method of quality assurance is to cook those tomatoes, even if for a little bit. So, today, we offer some interesting tomato dishes that are relatively easy but reassuring at the same time.

Grilled tomatoes

How much do we like blue cheese? We often talk about opening an eatery where every dish (except dessert, so far) has some bleu in it. One appetizer item we might include are these tomatoes done up with gorgonzola, which is Italian for blue cheese.

You'll need a gridded grill to do the tomatoes.

About a dozen large, fresh basil leaves, divided

3 small garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 teaspoons each, balsamic vinegar and red wine vinegar

About 9 large plum tomatoes (3/4 pound or thereabouts), halved lengthwise

1 1/4 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

18 Belgian endive leaves, thinly sliced crosswise

12 large radicchio leaves, thinly sliced crosswise

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Salt, if using

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Finely chop 9 of the basil leaves and stir together with garlic, olive oil, vinegars and pepper. Taste for salt and add if you feel you must. Add tomatoes and toss to coat.

Heat a well seasoned gridded grill pan over medium-high until hot but not smoking. Use a slotted spatula to transfer tomatoes, in batches, to grill pan. Reserve dressing in bowl. Grill tomatoes, turning once, just until lightly browned, about 4 minutes total.

Arrange tomatoes, cut side up, in a 9-inch pie plate. Repeat grilling process with remaining tomatoes, if needed. Repeat until all tomatoes are browned. You might have to use 2 pie plates. Sprinkle each tomato with some of the cheese, then bake in pre-heated oven until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.

While tomatoes bake, thinly slice remaining basil leaves and add to reserved dressing. Toss endive and radicchio with dressing and arrange on 6 plates. When tomatoes are done, use spatula to transfer to salad-lined plates, placing tomatoes atop the salad mixture, or to the side. Divide equally. Makes about 6 servings.

Rock 'n' sauce

Simply prepared rockfish fillets take very well to a butter-enhanced, lightly cooked sauce featuring fresh, heirloom tomatoes, onion and herbs. And you don't even have to light the grill.

Serve the rock with oven-fried potatoes and a salad, or haricots verts Some corn on the cob would be nice, too. Add a dry white wine.

4 ripe tomatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), all red or red and yellow combination

6 (6-ounce) rockfish fillets, skins on

Coarsely ground black pepper

Salt, if you must

About 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

3 large shallots, peeled, quartered lengthwise

4 scallions, trimmed, sliced lengthwise

4 teaspoons cold, unsalted butter

2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped, fresh dill

Core tomatoes and cut in half lengthwise. Chop coarsely. Remove to a bowl, including seeds and juices. Set aside while you cook fish.

For the fish, rub the fillets on both sides with some of the olive oil. Sprinkle with pepper, and salt, if using. Heat 2 heavy, non-stick skillets over medium heat until hot. One skillet should be large, the other a bit smaller. Place fish fillets in the larger skillet, skin side down. Put the second hot skillet on top of the fish to weigh down the fish so that the skin crisps evenly.

Cook fish this way for 4 minutes, wrotating the bottom pan every minute or so. Remove top pan. Turn fillets over and cook, uncovered, for 1 minute. Add shallots to pan and cook 2 minutes longer, until fish are cooked through.

Remove fish from skillet to a warm platter. Add some more oil and the scallions to the pan with the shallots and sauté over medium heat for about 2 minutes, until softened. Add tomatoes and butter and simmer 4 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in oregano and dill.

To serve, top fish in platter (or place fish on 6 individual plates) with some of the sauce. Pass more on the side. Makes 6 servings.

Tomato soup duet

Here's an opportunity to use both red and yellow tomatoes in a lovely, chilled bi-color soup. The basic soups are simple, and you don't need to cook them. But, if you're still leery of raw tomatoes, fix each color soup, simmer each slowly -- separately, of course -- and chill before serving.

The only two special pieces of equipment you'll need are your blender or food processor. And a pastry ring, aka a big round, open (top and bottom) cookie cutter (see below).

Also, for best effect, use those large-ish shallow soup plates for serving.

Use this soup as a colorful first course, or as a main course. As a first course, serve some crusty peasant bread alongside. As a main dish, why not fix open-faced toasted cheese sandwiches to go with? Use a favorite artisanal bread, lightly toasted. Then top with a variety of cheeses, maybe some roasted red peppers, and run under the broiler until the cheese is all melty. Add a green salad, with all your favorite ingredients, except tomatoes.

Yellow soup

2 1/2 pounds yellow tomatoes, quartered

1/3 cup chopped Vidalia onion

1 medium celery stalk, chopped

1/3 cup chopped fennel bulb

1 medium garlic clove, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped shallots

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt, optional

In food processor or blender, in batches if necessary, blend together all ingredients, except salt. Taste for seasonings. Add salt, if you must. Force mixture through a large sieve into another bowl. Discard solids remaining in sieve. Clean sieve for the red soup. Cover and chill until serving time.

Or, place in a medium, stainless steel pot and heat over medium until barely simmering. Cook about 6 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool, then chill until serving time.

Red tomato soup

3 1/2 pounds perfectly ripe red tomatoes (e.g. beefsteak), quartered

1 2/3 cups canned tomato juice (reduced sodium)

1/3 cup chopped red onion

1 medium celery stalk, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped, fresh basil leaves, plus tiny basil springs, for serving

1 medium garlic clove, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped shallot

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

About 1/4 teaspoon salt, optional

In food processor or blender, in batches, combine all red tomato soup ingredients, except salt and basil sprigs to use as garnish. Blend thoroughly. Taste for seasonings. Add salt if you must. Put mixture though a clean sieve, draining into a large bowl. Discard solids in sieve. Cover and chill until serving time.

Or, place in large pot and heat over medium until just barely simmering. Simmer about 6 minutes, stirring often. Pour into a large bowl, cool, then cover and chill until serving time.

To serve soup, arrange 6 shallow soup bowls on your counter. Press a pastry ring firmly down into the bowl in the center. Pour a generous one-half cup of yellow soup into the ring. Pour a generous 3/4 cup red tomato soup around the ring, then slowly lift ring. Wipe ring clean, then repeat until you have all 6 servings ready. Garnish each serving with some fresh basil. Makes 6 (or more) servings.

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