As Thanksgiving approaches, it's time to get our wine racks in order. This most American of holidays is celebrated with indigenous foodstuffs: potatoes, corn, certain types of beans, squash, turkey and chocolate (cacao). For the purist, there should be an appropriate indigenous vinous libation to complement.

More often than not, we resort to Beaujolais and Riesling in order to best address the sweet and savory items on the table from a wine-and-food-pairing perspective, but there is an alternative that strikes more to the American core: Zinfandel.

It comprises the red of the red white and blue.

Like most of us, Zinfandel is not indigenous. It was brought here during our period of colonization. Like most Americans, it was transplanted from its homeland, in this case, Croatia. Like most Americans, it set down roots and called this country home.

The native American grapes make for terrific jelly. Zinfandel is best served at table, and still, you will find most of the fruit in the glass quite jammy.

Most of the grapes in commercial production today are indigenous to France. But some grapes, even those major French grapes, seem to have settled best in other soils.

Shiraz has certainly made a name for itself in Australia, transplant as it is. Chenin Blanc has absolutely dominated the wine scene in South Africa for decades upon decades. Pinot Grigio is all the rage (from Italy). Merlot is a stand-alone varietal in the United States (vs. a blending partner in the Old World). Zinfandel (a.k.a. Crljenak Kasteljanski (pronounced tsurl-ye-nak kas-tel-yanskee) has made more of a name for itself on American soil than in its homeland.

So when choosing a wine for the holiday table, think zinfandel, our adopted national treasure. It best exemplifies the American way, a true Horatio Alger hero, a rags-to-riches story in which a little grape emerges from total obscurity to rock the wine world.

David Darlington, author of "Angel's Visits: An Inquiry Into the Mystery of Zinfandel," states that zinfandel has no precedent and had to invent itself in the United States. American winemakers could look to France as a benchmark for the other grape varieties it was vinifying into wine; there was no internationally recognized style for the grape the world now knows as Zinfandel.

Yep. Zinfandel is a self-made man. Very, very American.

And each "part of the country" from which he hails speaks to a different character and personality.

Mendocino

Mendocino zinfandel is bursting with red fruits and mulled or baking spice. This county is considered one of California's grape growing frontiers. Many family homestead properties are located here. It is a rugged region, like its wines.

Edmeades Zinfandel 2006, Mendocino, $17.99

The nose is all bay leaf and strawberry fruit. It is light-weight on the palate for a zin, almost silken in its tannins. There is lots of toasted cumin and cardamom in the finish. Its 15.5 percent alcohol level is more than masked by its fruit and spice. Definitely will stand up to the turkeys in your life on Thanksgiving.

Sierra Foothills

Sierra Foothills Zinfandel finds itself in Amador, Calaveras, El Dorado, Mariposa, Nevada, Placer, Toulumne and Yuba counties, Gold Rush territory! Some of the oldest zinfandel vineyards are located here. The unique decomposed granite soils and high altitude makes them unique within California. They are often described in terms of their jammy black raspberry fruit with abundant tannin, pigment and briary spice.

Calstar Cellars Alta Zinfandel 2006, Cardanini Estate, El Dorado, $24.99

We're heading into the port arena here, with loads of ripe, dark, jammy berry fruit that is heavily laced with toasted cinnamon. It packs a punch at 15.1 percent alcohol, but after half a glass you won't even notice.

Sonoma County

Viticulture here is marked by warm days and cool nights, attributes associated with the marine influences of the Pacific Ocean. Sonoma zinfandels have generally been characterized as possessing blackberry fruits with a noticeable trace of licorice.

Mia's Playground Old Vine Zinfandel 2005, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, $17.99

The wine hints of road tar and red licorice. This is a lightweight as zinfandels go, with a disguised 14.8 percent alcohol. The tannins are satin, all wrapped around a mineral core.

Central Coast

The zinfandel planted here enjoys the benefits of coastal breezes, which moderate the heat of summer and early fall. Wines typically display late-harvest fruit characteristics with bold cherry accents.

Rosenblum Richard Sauret Vineyards Zinfandel 2006, Paso Robles $21.99

The wine is all sun-dried cherries and cranberries with an undercurrent of carbonized minerality and a touch of chocolate.

Central Valley region

The Central Valley stretches from Colusa County in the north to Madera County in the south. Most of the zinfandel plantings are in Lodi, which stretches into the Sierra Nevadas. Days are warm; nights are cool. Most zinfandels display aromas of sweet and savory spice.

Ravenswood Old Vines Zinfandel 2006, Lodi $14.99

The tannins are firm with bold, ripe strawberry fruit. Look for aromas of white pepper, toasted almonds, cherry and mace. This one needs to breathe. Open an hour before drinking.

---

user comments (0)